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The Seychelles

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If your image of perfection is a vast crescent of powdery white sands overhung by casuarina trees and dotted with granite rocks, then The Seychelles, a collection of 115 islands sprinkled across the Indian Ocean, basking in a constant temperature of between 75F and 85F all year, fits the bill perfectly.

It’s a place where time is of little consequence, where it’s easy to fall into a relaxed and easy frame of mind and end up spending your days on just one of the big three islands, Mahe, Praslin or La Digue. That would be a pity though, because the other islands lapped by warm, turquoise seas, have their own attractions and are worth the ‘plane hop it takes to visit them..

Bird Island for instance, a sanctuary for one and a half million sooty terns, has as its oldest resident and star attraction, a giant tortoise called Esmeralda (said to be between 150 and 200 years old) with a shell of more than 1.8 metres in length. Tiger cowries and crabs shuffle across the sands as you take the 45 minute walk around the island. With The Lodge as the only accommodation on the island, no shops and no organised entertainment, a 2/3 day stopover is probably long enough unless you are a serious bird watcher.

Praslin just 15 minutes. away by ‘plane has an amazingly rich variety of plant and animal life and could be a blueprint for the perfect tropical island. When General Charles Gordon (he of Kartoum fame) first visited Praslin over 100 years ago he thought he had discovered the Garden of Eden when he saw the famous coco de mer, a massive nut whose shape bears a striking resemblance to the female pelvic region - pubic hair included - and provides plenty of innuendo for guides and locals alike.

Mahe, the main island, about one-quarter the size of Singapore, is a good place for walkers and hikers, but beach buggies and hire cars are available for those who prefer a motor tour on the well-kept roads. The Seychellois drive on the left by the way. Victoria, the sleepy little capital has few landmarks: a miniature Big Ben Clock Tower on the main street, the Anglican cathedral, the colourful markets, and the 100 year old Botanical Gardens with an excellent collection of orchids.

Even more relaxed than Praslin is La Digue, where bicycles and ox-carts are the only transport permitted on its 10-square Kilometres. With its 1930’s English suburban-type housing, giant tortoises and magnificent beaches, this seemed to me more like the Garden of Eden than Praslin.

In the last few years the Seychelles has gone all out to attract the discerning traveller who is now spoilt for choice when it comes to 5* accommodation. From the new 47-villa Banyan Tree Resort that towers above the beach, to the cluster of mahogany villas with open-air bathrooms and gazebos which is Lémuria, (with Nirvana in the shape of a millionaire’s home away from home - a Villa built on a craggy headland with its own beach, jacuzzi, massage suite and a sunken office) you will be spoilt for choice. North Island, the newest to be opened up, has 11 huge ‘haute couture’ rough and smooth chunky wooden villas each with its own pool, gazebo, internet access and 24-hour butler, for low-impact tourism. The original eco-luxury, accommodation, and some still say the best, is on Frégate Island where no more than 40 guests are on the island at any one time to share 16 luxuriously appointed villas with access to 7 beaches.

It can’t all be perfect I suppose, and if I had a complaint it would be that the food, away from the top hotels, is disappointing. Creole food has mixed parentage, ‘French Cuisine with curry’ best describes it. Of course, you can ask the restaurant to leave off the sauces when you tire of the creole taste, or, you could try the fried fruit bat and end up thinking that the creole sauce is a gourmet delight!

And if you must get active, visibility in the waters around the islands is just about as perfect as it can be for viewing the incredible collection of various coloured reef fish that move around continuously in the living corals. But be very careful of the currents. Maybe they represent the snake in the Garden of Eden?. There’s no evidence that General Gordon ever swam here, but if he had, he would surely warn you to never swim alone.

Click here for a few suggestions from our extensive portfolio of hotels.

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