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South Sea Islands - Paradise In Waiting
 A sleepy lagoon, a tropical moon, and two on an
island: the South Sea Islands can be summed up in these words from the
old song, and among the best of the islands are the 333 that make up the
Fijian archipelago. Barrelling surf, sparkling emerald seas, and of
course, sleepy lagoons, together with rainforests, mountain rivers,
waterfalls, miles and miles of pristine palm-fringed beaches, and
wonderful people given to breaking into song at every possible moment
make Fiji my favourite place of escape. It’s well worth the long haul
to get there but I’d recommend a stopover, otherwise the jetlag can take
days to wear off.
At one time the islands were known as the Cannibal
Isles and boats desperately avoided this crossroads of the Pacific. Now
ships, planes, and scheduled cruises bring thousands of eager visitors
to experience Fijian hospitality.
Exotic? I’ll say. The men wear flowers in their
thick, bushy hair, not for the tourist pictures but because they like
them: the eldest son is frequently brought up as a girl which can lead
to some, erm, ambiguity of gender at times. But to Fijians this is
fine, this is their culture.
When it comes to sport and relaxation I know of no
other place where you can swim with huge manta rays in between
scuba-diving and snorkelling over gardens of soft coral, home to the
most beautiful rainbow-coloured fish you are ever likely to see. And if
you’re a serious surfer, the famous 6-metre wave called The Cloud
Breaker which attracts surfers from all around the world, will be known
to you.
Life is lived to the full in Fiji wherever you
choose to base yourself whether at one of the off-shore islands (most
only a 10 min. hop away) or one of the bigger ones, like Vanua Levu
where the bustling capital of Suva and several large towns make for good
retail therapy after a few days lazing around. Hotels on Vanua Levu
are luxurious, especially on the Coral Coast where the Shangri-La’s
Fijian Hotel offers South Sea luxury, as does the Outrigger Reef. Or
there are basic bures (thatched beach cottages) which are fun for a few
nights, but best of all – and I cannot recommend it too highly – is a
Blue Lagoon Cruise.
Try a 3-night cruise and I guarantee that you’ll
long for more. Winner of multiple tourism awards, I first encountered
their mix of luxury and simple living 20 years ago, and they have not
changed the concept one iota over the years. Passenger care is still
No. 1 priority. With a maximum of 72 passengers, the boats (ranging
from super luxurious to carefree simplicity) sail around the islands,
stopping for swimming, snorkelling or shell collecting (I said it was
simple). Morning coffee with hot scones made on the boat and
transported to the beach for you, hot or cold lunches cooked aboard and
rowed out to be set up on tables on the sands and then cocktails on the
deck of the boat as the sun sets over the ink-dark sea, a seafood buffet
or a la carte dining, and the seal is set on the day. The final evening
is spent under the stars on a white sandy beach at a traditional “Magiti”,
a cook-out where fish, meats and tasty native dishes are cooked in an
earth oven.
This is a sojourn like no other in the world,
believe me.
 Should you want a South Pacific contrast, then head
for Samoa (but not American Samoa), and experience “Fa’a” – the Samoan
way – a way of life virtually unchanged in over 3000 years. This is
Robert Louis Stevenson’s “Treasure Island”, the place that enraptured
Rupert Brooke and countless marines in World War II who left mementoes
behind at Aggie Grey’s bar. Aggie’s is now a hotel which has been home
to countless stars, lured here not because it is super luxurious but
because Aggie was an exceptional woman who ran an exceptional hotel
(some claim she was the Bloody Mary character in South Pacific). whose
legacy of gracious Samoan hospitality is currently being carried on by
her family.. An extraordinary hotel by any standards. Samoa does not
have the range of luxury hotels that Fiji has. What it offers is an
experience of island living where the people take you completely to
their hearts and where the simple life becomes the perfect life.
It also has crystal clear waters, deep mountain
lakes, beach fales (rush-roofed cabins) overlooking reef-fringed
lagoons, white sandy beaches and a living culture. The extended
families of the island pay respect to tribal chiefs (Aggie Grey was one
such chief) in a distinctly Samoan, uniquely tropical way.
Whichever island you choose, you’ll be bowled over
by the friendliness. Tipping is not encouraged anywhere on Samoa and in
most places on Fiji. Some people are upset when you offer a tip, but a
smile and a genuine word of thanks is always welcome. That’s Fa’a.
Small friendships are built on these little things. |
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